For breakfast, we bought bread, milk, and orange juice and ate in the park. This of course is something one could do in Washington or anywhere else, but one never see,s to think of it until he is on vacation. As a matter of fact, Geoff thought of it.
Saw St. Joseph's Oratory on the Westmount, a new-Baroque basilica that is thoroughgoing 50-60's modern on the inside. There are displays of crutches, canes, and all sorts of braces left by pilgrims claiming cures, and a great sloping rack of hundreds of red prayer candles with "Saint Joseph Patron of The Church" spelled out in white candles like people holding up placards at a stadium.
We spent out first evening in an outdoor cafe (first for Sharon and me), one of 5 or 6 along place Jacques-Cartier in Ville-Marie, the old section of town. We were not disappointed. In the toilet, a little one-eyed man told me, first in French and then English, "man is not a camel. He cannot hold water 24 hours." Later this same fellow, who called himself Bambino ("if you ask me questions, you will hear a lot of fucking lies") stood outside the rail by our table expressing grave concern over Sharon's bandaged eye. Geoff flipped him to buy 2 beers (Geoff lost) and I gave him a cigar. His friend (the artiste) begged a quarter from Geoff.
The people one one side of us who spoke poor English, passed us joints of very weak dope. The people on the other side were young French separatists. They were more eloquent in English, and we discussed politics et all until midnight. We expressed surprise over the liveliness of Montreal at 11:30 on a Sunday or Monday night, and were told that the town used to jump 24 hours. Now, by law, it closes down at 3am. The separatists said that they appreciate it if a tourist tries to speak even very poor French because it shows he is willing to make the attempt. Quebecois say "bon jour" rather than au revoir.
So far the three of us prefer O'Keefe beer to Molson or LaBlatt.
4 June '75
We spent last night in a student type guest house McGill University for 2 dollars apiece. Our roommate, Jeff, had just ridden his 10 speed bicycle 1000 miles from Calgary to Montreal along Canadian route 1. He was trying to sell it for $350 so that he could continue travelling around the world.
We ended up our three days in Montreal with a bread-cheese-peanut butter-sherry picnic atop Mont Royal. That's what we ate for dinner, to - today was our lean day to make up for spending money the last few days.
Nil scenery beyond Montreal. Stopped the night in your typical pack-em-in campground near Drummondville, Que. Mercury vapor streetlights, even, but it was almost empty and so rather pleasant. I won my first game of backgammon from Geoff by mercury vapor streetlamp. Our brand-new nylon tent is lightweight, airy, light, and roomy enough for three.
